Lisbon in a weekend - Day 2

Hope you enjoyed your Day 1 in Lisbon and that it ended in the early hours (the nightlife here is a lot of fun!). It’s time for another full day of hiking around this city’s hilly roads.

DAY 2

To start off the day on the right foot, head to Rua Augusta for coffee at Pastelaria Casa Brasileira – they have a divine pastel de nata with almonds. What more could you want? If you’re not into the pastels or want to try something different, don’t fret, the choice of pastries here is endless. Brioche, creme-filled pastry, travesseiros de Sintra (puff pastry filled with almond creme), as well as savory options.

The first stop of the day is the Museu Nacional do Azulejo. Walking around the city you probably will already have noticed the singular decor of certain buildings. Azulejos are Spanish and Portuguese tin-glazed ceramic tiles, usually decorated with blue designs or patterns on a white background. They are applied to walls, floors, and ceilings, inside and outside buildings. Originally they were used also as a way to improve temperature control (most houses don’t have heating systems) but given the characteristic beauty they are now used more and more in Portuguese cities, as decorations that add luster and vibrancy to buildings.

The Museu Nacional do Azulejo celebrates this magnificent art through and is even more beautiful than one can expect since it is built in what used to be a convent: Convento da Madre de Deus. Inside you’ll be enveloped by the stunning azulejo-artwork that lines the walls of the cloisters and the church, they make their way into the sacristy, heavily ornate with gilded baroque decors, and azulejos that depict the story of Saint Anthony.

Head back to Praça do Comercio for a mid-morning snack. There are a few nice spots for a coffee break around, such as Nicolau Lisboa or Fàbrica Coffee Roasters. Recharged with some sugar and caffeine it’s time to head uphill to the Sé de Lisboa: Lisbon’s cathedral. Built in 1147 it is the oldest church in town and was erected for Saint Mary Major. Thanks to its sturdy structure it has survived through the city’s innumerable changes and earthquakes. It has both Romanesque elements, such as the symmetrical rose window above the entryway, and Gothic elements, like the cloisters and the ambulatory behind the altar where the tombs of Portuguese royals are located.

The location of the cathedral is peculiar, given that it sits on top of a hill, in what seems to be a very precarious point for such a heavy building. Nonetheless, it is still one of Lisbon’s oldest standing buildings!

From here you can head to Alfama to discover the oldest district of Lisbon. As you walk up towards the Castle there are a few notable sights along the way: the Miradouro de Santa Luzia, is a little corner of paradise: with its pergola and bright bougainvillea flowers overlooking Lisbon and its river, this is a corner of harmony and repose.

As you make your way up the streets of the Alfama district you’ll see that Lisbon is filled with lovely street art of all kinds and natures. You can really find some notables pieces that have come to adorn the streets of this bizarre, and somewhat grotesque, city.

Keep hiking as on the top of the hill is where you’ll find the magnificent Castelo de San Jorge. The first fortification on top of this hill probably dates back to Roman times in 48 B.C. and was used as a fortification by many other populations like Phoenicians, Carthaginians, and Moors.

Built as a fortified citadel to look over the city’s historic center, during the years it also served as royal residence, starting with Alfonso III. Anyhow it started to lose its relevance once the Ribeira Palace was built and it was also severely damaged by the numerous earthquakes that hit the city.

As a visitor today you can walk around the castle, on its walls and fortifications, you can climb up unsteady stairs and towers, and take in the marvelous view of Lisbon.

If after all the walking and climbing you’re still up for more, that it’s time to head to the most beautiful of all the miradouros: the Miradouro da Senhora do Monte, beware to find the easy way up, because if you get it wrong (like I did) you’ll have to go up one of the steepest winding roads I’ve ever seen. And it’s not fun at all. Anyway, it’s definitely worth the effort, because the view up there is enchanting. End your day here, sit, relax, sip a beer and enjoy the romantic view of the sunset.